When you see the name "Hunan Palace Express," think "express," not "palace."
   The restaurant occupies a tiny hut just north of Pershing Boulevard where Pike Avenue continues as MacArthur Drive. It was a Mexican drive-through and a burger drive-through before it became a Chinese drivethrough.
   If you really, really don't like using drive-through windows, there's a small area where you can order over the counter and actually sit down and eat at one of a handful of tables -- if you're not overly claustrophobic.
   Be aware, however, that trying to edge into one of the street-side parking places and getting out of your car to enter the front of the restaurant is risky because there's not much room between the parking spaces and the drive-through lane.
   The two principal reasons for getting your lunch or dinner from Hunan Palace Express: "fast" and "inexpensive." Nothing is over $5.75. You can order entrees in two categories: "Combos," which come with drink, egg roll and fried rice, $4.95 for chicken and beef, $5.25 for shrimp, or as "Combination Platters," without the drink, $4.75. You can also order lo mein (soft noodles, $4.95 chicken or beef, $5.50 shrimp, $5.75 combo) or fried rice ($3.85- $3.95 pint, $4.95- $5.50 quart).
   The brown sauce on our Mongolian Beef -- sauteed beef and onions -- was rich and strong but not spicy (as many Chinese restaurants serve it). The sauce on our Szechuanstyle Hot Spicy Shrimp, sauteed with water chestnuts, carrots and sliced green bell peppers, was pleasantly spicy but not fiery.
   The shell on our egg rolls ($1.95 for two a la carte) were firm but not especially crisp; inside they had a decent meat-tocabbage ratio and were without annoying, cloying secondary flavors (characteristic of egg rolls in many inexpensive eateries). The fried rice that comes with the entrees is so-so ; our experience elsewhere is that you'll stand a better chance if you're ordering fried-to-order fried rice as an entree.
   It's worth a dollar for a substantial 16-ounce portion of soup, either the tasty, spicy but not that spicy Hot and Sour or the Wonton, which had a delicate broth and a monster meatfilled dumpling. However, on both our visits the otherwise kindly folks behind the counter failed to supply us with spoons. (You can sip either soup and use a fork to finagle the wonton, but a spoon would be preferable.)
   Place your order by phone and you can pick it up at the drive-through window in 10 minutes. It took less than that ordered over the counter in the tiny vestibule.
   

HUNAN PALACE EXPRESS Address:
2906 MacArthur Drive, North Little Rock

Hours:
10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday, noon-8 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine:
Chinese

Credit cards:
Not at the moment

Alcoholic beverages:
No

Reservations:
No

Nonsmoking section:
Not applicable

Wheelchair accessible:
Use the drive-through

Carryout:
Yes

(501) 812-5925

This story was published Friday, June 02, 2006