Anyone can slap a sandwich together.
   (Well, maybe almost anyone... there are those pre-fab peanut-butterand-jelly sandwiches in the freezers of Sam's Club.)
   Take bread, put stuff between it, eat. Simple. Better yet, cheap.
   So if we're going to go out for a sandwich and spend a sum that could have yielded dozens of homemade sandwiches, we expect it to be great. We expect artistry. We expect architecture.
   In that spirit, we surveyed the central Arkansas sandwich scene, sampling paninis, cheesesteaks, melts, Reubens and Cubans at 17 eateries known for their sandwiches (for space purposes, we couldn't include every area establishment serving a roast beef on rye, and we did not include burgers and barbecue).
   For your sandwich shopping, we included examples of the more simple and sophisticated sandwiches offered at a location, as well as the sides included and the satisfaction we experienced.
   

BOULEVARD BREAD CO.
   
1920 N. Grant St., Little Rock, (501) 663-5951 ; Cox Creative Center, 120 Commerce St., Little Rock, (501) 244-2455 ; University of Arkansas for Medical Sciences College of Public Health, 4301 W. Markham St., Little Rock, (501) 526-6661
   Simple: Smoked turkey on baguette ($3.75 half, $6.50 whole)
   Sophisticated: Panini Di Parma, prosciutto and provolone cheese grilled on a baguette ($3.50 half, $5.95 whole)
   Sides: Potato chips are included.
   Satisfaction: Even the most humble of Boulevard's line of Italian-style and deli sandwiches crafted on chewy baguettes is very classy. They don't serve just a BLT, but rather a PLT of pancetta, arugula, for the lettuce, and tomato (and not with regular mayo, but "aoili" ). The Heights location offers a more full deli experience than the smaller locations. And it sometimes offers a smoother experience. On a recent visit, the downtown location was out of some key ingredients and napkins, and a mix-up in the ordering process caused a Panini Caprese ($3.50 half, $5.95 whole) of fresh mozzarella, tomato and pesto to sit a while before it made its way to us.
   BURGE'S 5620 R St., Little Rock, (501) 666-1660 Simple: A BLT ($3.79) Sophisticated: A po' boy ($6.29) with smoked turkey or ham or barbecued beef or pork Sides: Potato salad, slaw and barbecued beans, as well as delicious and greasy fries, and onion rings can be ordered for an additional charge ($1.14- $2.79).
   Satisfaction: Burge's in the Heights assembles sandwiches of its high-quality smoked turkey and ham and thick bacon the old-school way, on buttered and toasted bread and with mayonnaise, unless calorie consciousness kicks in and causes one to request otherwise. A smoked turkey salad sandwich ($4.69) always makes for a creamy, comforting lunch.
   

COMMUNITY BAKERY CAFE
1202 Main St., Little Rock, (501) 375-6418 Simple: Tuna on whole wheat ($5.19) Sophisticated: Fresh mozzarella, basil and tomato on a French baguette with pesto ($5.99) Sides: Sandwiches come with chips or baby carrots.
   Satisfaction: The menu is always consistent at this downtown standby, even if the food isn't (sorry, we've suffered a few too many sad, mushy Avocado Melt sandwiches over the years). But a recent sassy and successful grilled panini ($6.59) of turkey, melted cheese and Cajun spices sparked a renewed romance for this old flame.
   

CORNERSTONE DELI & PUB
314 Main St., North Little Rock, (501) 374-1782 Simple: Grilled chicken sandwich ($5.57) Sophisticated: Grilled portobello mushroom sandwich ($5.50) Sides: Sandwiches come with homemade potato chips. But a $1.50 splurge for a scoop of sour cream-based potato salad is a worthy investment.
   Satisfaction: The hoagie rolls are soft and come stuffed at this North Little Rock deli that feeds diners sandwiches like Reubens and clubs from lunch to late night. Spice seekers look no further than The Heater ($5.50) of smoked turkey, pepperjack cheese, banana and jalapeno peppers, spicy mustard and hot sauce.
   

DOWNTOWN DELI
   
323 Center St., Little Rock, (501) 372-3696
   Simple: A grilled cheese ($2.49)
   Sophisticated: The Belly Buster ($5.99) of au jus-soaked roast beef, sauteed peppers onions and mushrooms on a French roll with provolone and mayonnaise
   Sides: Traditional sandwiches include choice of chips, pasta salad, potato salad or garden salad. Light sandwiches come with fresh fruit (served with a cinnamon-flecked dip), baked chips or steamed vegetables.
   Satisfaction: If Downtown Deli's lengthy list of signature sandwiches, wraps and light sandwiches doesn't match one's call-ahead or dine-in cravings, customers can always build their own creation from the Deli's list of meats (limit two), breads, vegetables, cheese (limit two) and dressings for $5.29. But the Mary Melt Wrap ($5.29), a garlic-herb tortilla filled with guacamole, spinach, sauteed peppers, onions and mushrooms, sprouts and melted Swiss, always satisfies a craving for a very vegetable and not terribly heavy handful.
   EJ'S

EATS & DRINKS
   
523 Center St., Little Rock, (501) 666-3700
   Simple: Ham and cheese ($6.50 regular, $7.50 large)
   Sophisticated: Pork Loin Sandwich ($6.75 regular, $7.95 large)
   Sides: A pickle spear and homemade potato chips come with sandwiches; wraps come with a pickle and fruit or vegetables.
   Satisfaction: Being stuck lunching at a desk isn't as dreadful if that desk has a take-out sandwich from easygoing EJ's on it. Build a sandwich from EJ's lists of meats (limit one), cheese (limit one), sauce, vegetables and breads. Or choose from one of the downtown joint's classic sandwiches -- like meatball or a grilled chicken with cheese -- or top shelf sandwiches -- like a Cuban or Reuben -- or wraps -- like a chicken Caesar and BLT. A recent Southwest Pesto ($6.75 regular, $7.95 large) sandwich with grilled chicken, cheddar, lettuce and tomato dressed in a zippy chipotle pesto, offered an interesting change of pace.
   

GREAT WRAPS
   
11400 N. Rodney Parham Road., Little Rock, (501) 225-9727
   Simple: South Beach Tuna wrap ($4.79)
   Sophisticated: Super Gyro Wrap ($4.79), a regular gyro joined by mushrooms and melted provolone
   Sides: All are extra. We recommend the fun, tasty seasoning-salted Kurly Q Fries ($1.25 for one serving or $3.50 for a basket).
   Satisfaction: Tortilla-wrapped meats, cheese and vegetables -- in combinations like Philly cheesesteak, Buffalo chicken and club -- make up the menu, as do some grilled flatbread and pita sandwiches, at west Little Rock's Great Wraps where customers order at the counter and watch their meals being made. The Roasted Veggie Wrap ($4.39), a green spinach tortilla embracing mushrooms, caramelized onions, peppers, melted pepper jack cheese, lettuce, tomato, cucumber and balsamic vinaigrette, is a nice, light option, while the Texas Hold 'Em ($4.99) of seasoned steak, melted cheese, garlic mushrooms and caramelized onions is a quick fix for a hearty appetite.
   JASON'S

DELI
   
301 N. Shackleford Road, Little Rock, (501) 954-8700 ; 4209 E. McCain Blvd., North Little Rock, (501) 945-7700
   Simple: A BLT ($5.50)
   Sophisticated: New Orleans Muffaletta ($4.99- $9.50)
   Sides: Traditional sandwiches come with regular chips or baked chips and a pickle. Light sandwiches come with baked chips, fresh fruit or steamed vegetables.
   Satisfaction: Maybe we've been stuck in our sodium-rific Turkey Reuben ($5.99) rut for too long. Because we eat at the bustling deli often and still had no idea the restaurant offers packed po' boys of meats, meatballs even vegetables with asiago cheese and balsamic vinaigrette. Or that Jason's, which allows patrons to build their own sandwiches, now carries hot panini and "Wrapini" sandwiches with varieties of chicken, turkey and grilled portobello mushrooms. And we'll try them... after we have just one more salty, lowfat Swiss-suffocated Reuben. JIMMY'S

SERIOUS SANDWICHES
   
5116 W. Markham St., Little Rock, (501) 666-3354
   Simple: Smoked turkey ($5.65)
   Sophisticated: It's Greek to Me ($5.50), a wrap of hummus with roasted red peppers, sauteed onions, lettuce and vegetable yogurt sauce
   Sides: Choose one: Soup, fruit salad, potato salad, pasta salad, potato chips or a twicebaked potato.
   Satisfaction: Expect to be seriously conflicted over which of Jimmy Weisman's 12 creative sandwiches to choose: Red Chile-Rubbed Salmon ($6.75)? Peking Pork ($6.25)? Marinated chicken breast of wheatberry bread ($5.85)? And then be conflicted about which bread to choose. And what side. The Thai One On ($5.95), featuring Thai chicken breast, lettuce, Asian slaw and no-fat lime dressing, is our newest favorite. Everyone's oldest favorite is the awardwinning The Garden ($5.95) of three cheeses, mushrooms, sunflower seeds, sprouts and spinach salad spread on pumpernickel.
   MCALISTER'S

DELI
12019 Westhaven Drive, Little Rock, (501) 228-7727 ; 9700 N. Rodney Parham Road, Little Rock, (501) 537-4848 ; 5507 Ranch Drive, Little Rock, (501) 367-5050 ; 4842 North Hills Blvd., North Little Rock, (501) 812-6920 ; 2465 Sanders Road, Conway, (501) 513-1311 Simple: Ham ($4.95) Sophisticated: The California Classic ($4.59), provolone and mozzarella cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, bell peppers, onions and fresh olive salad on a pita
   Sides: Sandwiches are served with a pickle and a choice of chips, potato salad, coleslaw or fruit.
   Satisfaction: While this family-oriented chain can be crowded and the young staff can sometimes seem confused (at least at the location closest to us), the sandwiches, which range from basic roast beef and salami deli sandwiches to melts and muffalettas, are usually worth the chaos. Our favorite recent find is The Patriot ($5.65), smoked turkey, lettuce, tomatoes, light mayonnaise and Swiss on wheatberry bread with a sweet-tart slathering of orange-cranberry sauce.
   MIMI'S

CAFE
   
11725 Chenal Parkway, Little Rock, (501) 221-3883
   Simple: Ham & Cheddar Grill ($7.99)
   Sophisticated: French Quarter ($8.99) with avocado, bacon, Swiss and Thousand Island dressing on grilled garlic sourdough.
   Sides: Included are a pile of fries (trans-fat-free, the menu boasts) or a side of coleslaw. Soup or fresh fruit requires a 49-cent upgrade.
   Satisfaction: The sandwiches on Mimi's menu might seem expensive. But that is before diners feast their eyes on the mammoth structures that are more than a mouthful and more than one meal full. We recommend the Turkey Pesto Ciabatta ($8.49) that features bacon, mozzarella, tomato, avocado and pesto mayo with actual carvings of roasted turkey, not the same old sliced deli stuff.
   

OLD MILL BREAD AND FLOUR CO.
   
12111 W. Markham St., Little Rock, (501) 228-4677 Simple: Pimento cheese ($5.25) Sophisticated: Turkey Swiss & Apple ($6.50) Sides: Sandwich baskets will come with a cookie. Chips cost 99 cents.
   Satisfaction: At Old Mill, the tough choice isn't what kind of sandwich, it's what kind of fresh-baked bread: Spinach Feta, Sesame Sunflower, Honey Whole Wheat... the list goes on. Can't decide? Select a sandwich that has a bread suggestion with it, like the Fiesta Turkey ($6.25), a fine arrangement of turkey, lettuce, tomato, red onions and chipotle sauce on Ro-Tel fourcheese bread or The Central Coast ($6.50) a smooth medley of turkey avocado, Swiss, lettuce, tomato (no onions by request) on soft Spinach Feta bread.
   RENO'S

ARGENTA CAFE
312 Main St., North Little Rock, (501) 376-2900 Simple: Grilled chicken sandwich ($6.95) Sophisticated: Blackened tilapia on a ciabatta roll ($7.95) Sides: Select from potato salad, a tomato-dotted pesto pasta salad or dark homemade potato chips.
   Satisfaction: The sandwich lineup at neighborly Reno's is downright royal, balancing all the expected staples with selections we don't see everywhere (Chicken Parmesan, Chicken Cordon Bleu... even Fish Tacos, which is not exactly a sandwich, but sort of fits in the wraps category). Reno's offers the metro area a rare opportunity to sample a close-to-authentic flat, meaty and pickley Cuban sandwich ($7. 50). And an emphasis on high-quality ingredients makes less exotic choices -- a Reece's Turkey Wrap ($6.95) with smoked turkey, bacon, cheddar, cream cheese and hot sauce bundled in a pita -- shine.
   ROCKY'S

PUB
6929 John F. Kennedy Blvd., North Little Rock, (501) 833-1077 Simple: Turkey hoagie ($5.99 small, $8.99 large) Sophisticated: Grilled Rachel sandwich ($5.49), a Reuben with slaw instead of sauerkraut Sides: Sandwiches come with homemade chips. Fries cost $1.
   Satisfaction: Hoagies? Grinders? The folks at Rocky's Pub aren't from around these parts are they? Nope. They're from Philly, hence the menu's list of hoagies (subs) and grinders (toasted subs). The cheesesteaks (and pizza steaks and chicken cheesesteaks) are as authentic as can be enjoyed in this area and cost $6.99- $9.49. The petite sit-down restaurantbar, which also carries several grilled sandwiches and wraps, is hoping to expand its location so that its operation can be as big as the menu.
   

SAN FRANCISCO BREAD CO.
   
101 S. Bowman Road, Little Rock, (501) 537-0200 ; 101 Main St. Little Rock, (501) 372-7322 ; 794 Elsinger Drive, Conway, (501) 327-7322
   Simple: Chicken salad wrap ($5.49)
   Sophisticated: Chicken Florentine Panini ($6.29)
   Sides: Chips and a pickle accompany sandwiches. Substitute pasta salad or potato salad for 85 cents. Fruit is a seasonally priced substitution.
   Satisfaction: Just because we have to work through lunch doesn't mean we can't enjoy it. San Francisco Bread locations offer wireless Internet and, at some locations, free Internet access at some fixed computers. At all locations they offer quickly produced, satisfying sandwiches -- from a subtle Honey Pecan Turkey wrap with turkey, honey pecan cream cheese, Swiss, lettuce and tomatoes ($5.99) to a drippy, salty Golden Gate Stuffalatta ($6.25) with salami, ham, olive salad, garlic mayo and provolone cheese on ciabatta.
   

STARVING ARTIST CAFE
   
416 W. Seventh St., Little Rock (501) 372-7976
   Simple: There are only five paninis, and they're all pretty swank
   Sophisticated: Black forest ham, Swiss and roasted-garlic mayonnaise ($6.95)
   Sides: Sandwiches come with roasted potatoes or chips. But they were out of potatoes during a recent dinner trip, so we enjoyed a tasty helping of smooth polenta instead.
   Satisfaction: Plenty of artistry goes into the making of Starving Artists' paninis ($6.25-$ 6.95), grilled sandwiches that include fine meats, cheeses and fancy homemade spreads. Diners can sit and admire the vibrant artwork on the walls while they wait for specialties that include the Italian, made of salami, mortadella bologna, pastrami and mozzarella with basil mayo, and the panini of Buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil.
   

TROPICAL SMOOTHIE CAFE
   
11900 Kanis Road, Little Rock, (501) 221-6773 ; 12911 Cantrell Road, Little Rock, (501) 224-1113 ; 790 Elsinger Blvd., Conway, (501) 764-1500 ; 705 Club Lane, Conway (501) 764-4800
   Simple: A BLT with cheese ($6.29)
   Sophisticated: Chicken Mango Habanero Wrap ($5.79)
   Sides: Chips are included. Those wanting soup, salad or a smoothie, consider having half a sandwich and one of those items for $6.49.
   Satisfaction: No way is Tropical Smoothie just a fruit shake place. The quick counter operation offers more than 20 sandwiches and wraps from which to choose, and more than a few include interesting ingredients and pairings. Consider the Jamaican Jerk Chicken wrap ($5.79), chicken breast strips, rice, corn, black beans, asparagus, onions, lowfat mozzarella and a zippy Jamaican jerk sauce or the equally hot Buffalo Chicken wrap ($5.79) of chicken, lettuce, tomatoes, low-fat mozzarella, hot sauce and light ranch.

This story was published Friday, August 04, 2006