The Man says you can only have breakfast between 6 and 10 a.m. and then it turns to brunch. The Man says that the grill is no longer recognizing eggs or bacon. The Man says that if you want a bagel, you'll just have to go to the store and toast it up yourself.
   Are you going to listen to The Man?
   No. If you want waffles, hash browns and eggs at 1 p.m. or 8 p.m., you should have them! And you shall have them and more -- fie on The Man! -- if you follow our guide below to all-day breakfast.
   We're splitting our survey into two parts: sit-down restaurants and coffee houses. Menu items might be limited at the coffee houses, but there's at least hot coffee to make up for any deficiencies.
   The key elements, in our opinion, that can make or break the meal are hash browns and newspapers. Yes, we are fussy about both of these. The hash browns should be thin strips of potatoes in a cross-hatch pattern grilled so they are crispy at least on the top. Newspapers -- and the more variety the better -- should be available for free or at least close by enough so that they can be bought with little trouble.
   Have those two things, and you are well on your way to a great breakfast, no matter the time.
   SIT-DOWN

RESTAURANTS
IHOP 11601 Hermitage Road, Little Rock, (501) 227-4205 and other locations around Arkansas Full breakfast menu available: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week What's for breakfast: Pancakes, stuffed French toast, Belgian waffles, Big Bacon omelets, crepes.
   Cup of coffee: $1.79 Newspaper access: Two coin-operated racks (Democrat-Gazette and USA Today) outside.
   Hash brown report: In the past, we've found IHOP's hash browns, which fit our general definition of the holy object, on the undercooked and greasy side. On our last visit, we had a plate of drier, crunchy hash browns. Grade: B+. Comments: There's probably a book in the way that IHOP has gone from funky, pancakes-around-the-world gimmickry to a streamlined, don't-mention-the-root-n' -tooty-fresh-n' -fruity franchise. The IHOPs in Little Rock, particularly the one off Chenal in west Little Rock, are clean, well-lighted and professionally run. Yes, they still put the fruit on top of their pancakes, which is a demerit in our book. But you can get a fine and filling breakfast there anytime around the clock, and if there is another reason to go to IHOP, we haven't found it.
   Mimis Cafe
   11725 Chenal Parkway, Little Rock, (501) 221-3883
   Full breakfast menu available: 7 a.m.-11 p.m. daily
   What's for breakfast: An extensive and impressive menu that includes Three Berry Stuffed French Toast, a selection of Three Egg Omelets including Mardi Gras Omelet and 5 Alarm Santa Fe Omlette and house specialties like Chipotle Breakfast Burrito. They also have baked goods like pumpkin muffins and bagels, and Old Fashioned Buckeye Oatmeal.
   Cup of coffee: $1.95
   Newspaper access: There are no newspaper racks anywhere near the entrance to Mimis Cafe.
   Hash brown report: Mimis might be proud of their hunks of red potatoes as the de facto upmarket substitute for proper hash browns. They shouldn't be. Grade: D.
   Comments: The fanciest and newest restaurant in our listing, Mimis Cafe believes in huge portions. The French toast alone could feed a family -- or a football team. The orange juice comes out in a large flute. They seem to tout their mimosas, which provide a breakfast option that none of the others on this list can match. Still, there's something a little too stiff about Mimis. Yet, if you're looking for a grander breakfast experience when the sun goes down, this is the best option available.
   Denny's
   310 S. Shackleford Road, Little Rock, (501) 224-8264 and other locations around Arkansas
   Full breakfast menu available: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
   What's for breakfast: A selection of three-egg omelets, T-Bone Steak and Eggs, Belgian waffle, fruit-filled pancakes.
   Cup of coffee: $1.64
   Newspaper access: Democrat-Gazette and USA Today coin-operated racks outside the front door.
   Hash brown report: If nothing else, they've figured out hash browns at Denny's. Grade: A Comments: Sitting in the middle between Waffle House and IHOP, Denny's isn't going to blow your doors off -- or leave you disappointed either. The one on Shackleford appears round-the-clock popular.
   Cracker Barrel 3101 Springhill Road, North Little Rock, (501) 945-9373 and other locations around Arkansas Full breakfast menu available: Sunday-Thursday 6 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6 a.m.-11 p.m.
   What's for breakfast: Old Timer's Breakfast that includes eggs, grits, sawmill gravy, buttermilk biscuits and more; pecan pancakes; Wild Main blueberry pancakes; oatmeal; fried apples.
   Cup of coffee: $1.29
   Newspaper access: Here is something we never noticed before. Cracker Barrel has free newspapers in a basket by the fireplace in its dining area. There're also a couple of coin-operated racks, USA Today included, outside.
   Hash brown report: Perfection. Don't order the cheese casserole hash browns. Ask for the plain variety and experience nirvana. Grade: A+
   Comments: Yeah, it's a chain, and it can get absolutely mad during peak rush hours, but this is our favorite for all-day breakfast. The large orange juice comes out in a frosty mug. The blueberries are baked into the pancakes and not slopped on top. The hash browns are terrific. There's a fireplace. OK, there's a little bit too much corporate hokum (Cracker Barrel's brand is starting to be as heavily regimented as McDonald's ), but it's not intrusive. This is an excellent place to have breakfast.
   Waffle House
   500 E. Bowman Road, Little Rock, (501) 223-8152 and other locations around Arkansas
   Full breakfast menu available: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week including Christmas and New Year's Day.
   What's for breakfast: Waffles including chocolate chip, eggs, hash browns, sausage, toast, dry cereal.
   Cup of coffee: $1.10
   Newspaper access: Democrat-Gazette and USA Today coin-operated racks outside.
   Hash brown report: They offer addins such as onions, mushrooms and cheese for those who want them. For those who don't, their plain hash browns will certainly fill the bill. Grade: AComments : Here's how long it has been since I've been to a Waffle House. I didn't realize they just had waffles and thought they had pancakes and maybe even French toast. In any case, Waffle House is your cheap, no-frills, fill-yourgullet breakfast option. The waitresses call out the order to the always-harried shortorder cook in that slang that's funny. The coffee, which is actually better than some offered in fancy coffee houses, comes in those wonderful white mugs. You can also belly up to the bar if you don't want a booth. The best part is that Waffle House can satisfy your breakfast craving any time of the day or night.
   Starlite Diner 250 E. Military Road, North Little Rock, (501) 753-1433 Full breakfast menu available: 6 a.m.-10 p.m. daily What's for breakfast: Pancakes with blueberries and pecans, a great variety of omelets, hash browns, eggs.
   Cup of coffee: $1.10 Newspaper access: A couple of coinoperated racks outside and, if you're lucky, some free papers -- or likely parts of free ones -- in a rack near the door.
   Hash brown report: Maybe these are slightly soggier than needed, but otherwise they are the way God intended hash browns to be. Also, they have several addin options, if you want to go that route. But why would you? Grade: AComments : Set the steel-covered Starlite Diner down in, say, the River Market, and it might become an instant -- and likely annoying -- tourist attraction. But seeing as it's in an out-of-the way part of North Little Rock, it remains a treasured secret, and rightfully so. The booths, the bar in front of the grill, the classic rock music and no-nonsense diner atmosphere contribute to a pleasant experience. The pancakes are quite large, and happily they bake the fruit and nuts in them instead of throwing them on top.
   

COFFEE HOUSES
Community Bakery, 1200 Main St., Little Rock, (501) 375-6418 Full breakfast menu available: 6 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 6 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 7 a.m.- 8 p.m. Sunday.
   What's for breakfast: Breakfast sandwiches, bagels, pastries.
   Cup of coffee: $1.25 with free self-serve refills available.
   Newspaper access: The greatest selection of papers of any breakfast place can be found here. Inside you might be able to score a free Democrat-Gazette, New York Times, Arkansas Times, Little Rock Free Press or a Wall Street Journal in a rack near the register in the cafe. Outside, there is a long row of coin-operated racks.
   Comments: The breakfast selection might be limited (and picked over) at night, but Community Bakery will have its wonderful coffee (the Grand Hotel flavor is our fave) and newspapers to read. There are also games such as Scrabble and Chutes and Ladders, if you are in a mood to play.
   San Francisco Bread Company
   101 South Bowman Road, Little Rock, (501) 537-0200
   Full breakfast menu available : 6-9 p.m. Monday-Friday, 7-10 p.m. Saturday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday
   What's for breakfast: An assortment of bagels, danishes, muffin tops, chocolate croissants, breakfast sandwiches.
   Cup of coffee: $1.47 for small with free self-serve refills available.
   Newspaper access: A coinoperated rack outside.
   Comments: The interior of this coffee house is nice, and now they have two computers installed in a bar area in front of an impressive flat-screen TV. There are lots of folks who come in with their computers and stay awhile. Too bad that the bagels and pastries are average and the coffee is worse than that.
   Coffee Beanery Cafe
   17200 Chenal Parkway, Little Rock, (501) 821-7747
   Full breakfast menu available : 6:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday
   What's for breakfast: Breakfast sandwiches including Bayou Andouille Sausage and Egg on a hot ciabatta roll, cups of fresh cut fruit, bagels, scones, muffins.
   Cup of coffee: $1.40 for small with free refills available
   Newspaper access: Free Democrat-Gazette, Wall Street Journal and USA Today available in a stand near the door.
   Comments: This Coffee Beanery location out on Chenal remains a place that regulars seek out. There are a few big, comfy leather chairs where the smart people park themselves to work or just read. The bakery items offered are nothing special, but there's a pleasing variety of breakfast sandwiches. Coffee Beanery's bold and rich coffee is perhaps the most underrated in Little Rock. Cross your fingers and hope they have the Hawaiian Coconut on tap during your visit.

This story was published Friday, January 05, 2007