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Dining Out
Friday, December 1, 2006
Dining Out :: Shoppers' sustenance
These retail district sit-down eateries will help harried gift-buyers keep up their strength
Shoppers' sustenance These retail district sit-down eateries will help harried gift-buyers keep up their strength
BY JENNIFER CHRISTMAN ARKANSAS DEMOCRAT-GAZETTE
Tie for dad? Check. Jewelry for mom? Check. Toys for the kiddos? Check. Food for you? No check for that yet -- you've been too busy shopping to even scope out nearby noshing options. No problem. We have already done that for you and put together a list of 10 easily accessed eateries in the metro area's shopping districts of downtown, midtown, west Little Rock and North Little Rock. After a strenuous shopping session, we find it gratifying to sit down, relax and, to some extent, be waited on. So all of the restaurants featured in our noninclusive roundup fulfill those requirements (they also do carryout in case you're just ready to head home). In other words, we didn't visit food courts and fast food outlets -- you probably already know if you like Sbarro and where the nearest Chick-fil-A is. DOWNTOWN Boscos Museum Center, 500 President Clinton Ave., Little Rock, (501) 907-1881 Whether you need to revive or just imbibe before, during or after a day of downtown shopping, Boscos, an attractive and animated eatery/microbrewery, is a fine choice. And on nice days, the patio offers a pleasant outdoor escape. The lunch menu features plenty of energizing choices, like the Asian Chicken Salad ($8.50) of baby spinach with fried wontons, mandarin oranges, red peppers and chicken in an Asian vinaigrette or the Grilled Portobella Club Sandwich ($7.50), a meaty mushroom topped with provolone, greens, roasted red peppers and basil mayonnaise that comes with fruit, pasta salad or fries. The dinner menu features heartier fare, like the famed Wood Oven Planked Salmon ($18) served with garlic mashed potatoes. Wood oven pizzas ($7.50- $9.75) are available all day, and even all evening as part of Boscos' late-night menu offered until closing. Not sure which of the award-winning brews to try? Your server can make recommendations based on your beer preferences and your food selection. And, as Boscos sells merchandise like Tshirts, hats and pint glasses, you might even find yourself crossing another name or two off your gift list. Iriana's 201 E. Markham St., Little Rock, (501) 374-3656 If you've spent an afternoon shuffling around the specialty stores in the River Market District, it's worth the few more steps west to visit Iriana's. Those wanting to eat and run can choose from grinders served on French bread ($3.79 half, $5.59 whole) or slices of pizza ($1.55- $2.30) if it's 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday. But those with time to linger can sit back in Iriana's clean, modern dining room and knock back a few beers (alcoholic or root) while a fragrant pizza ($6.15- $15.15; additional toppings are $1.20-$ 1.50) bakes. For the hunger that can't wait, a small salad ($2.20) of mostly iceberg lettuce and mozzarella with a few extras, served with a soft breadstick, hits the spot. One breadstick not enough? Order three (half order) or six (full order) with or without cheese ($1.89- $3.59). While many different pies can be customized with Iriana's toppings, we seldom stray from the robust "Sweep the Floor" piled with plenty of high-quality meats -- pepperoni, Canadian bacon and sausage -- and peppers, onions, mushrooms and olives. Any leftovers can make a restorative dayafter-shopping breakfast the next morning. MIDTOWN Forbidden City 6000 W. Markham St. (Park Plaza), Little Rock, (501) 663-9099 Not only is dim, calm Forbidden City the only place to have a full-service sit-down meal at Park Plaza, it's the only place in the mall selling adult beverages. And for that reason we can almost forgive the dirty floor and ripped booth that awaited us on a recent visit. Almost. That Forbidden City, located on the lowest level, has seen better days was not just evident in the somewhat disheveled appearance, but in the food. The Hot & Sour Soup ($1.50) was not as zippy as we remembered and neither was the Shrimp With Hot Garlic Sauce ($9.75), which, despite the presence of "hot & spicy" asterisks on the menu, was a bland platter of shellfish and vegetable slivers. The Beef With Broccoli ($9.25) was better, featuring saucy bits of beef with florets with some crispness to them. Meals, which range in price from $6.95 to $20.95, are plentiful in portion and come with steamed or fried rice. The dozens of entrees on the large menu can be turned into a complete dinner with soup, an egg roll and chicken wing for $2.25. Almost 40 lunch specials ($4.95-6.50), which come with an egg roll and soup, are available daily until 4 p.m. Our server was certainly attentive, refilling glasses and removing empty plates almost too quickly. But after a long day of shopping (and long can mean until 9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday or 10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday when Forbidden City closes), it's nice to be fussed over. Franke's Cafeteria 300 S. University Ave. (University Mall), Little Rock, (501) 666-1941 While shoppers might not fulfill all their Christmas shopping needs at the somewhat desolate University Mall, it is possible for them to fulfill their appetites at homey, family-owned Franke's cafeteria, located on the first floor. Because it's a challenge to carry food and shopping bags, shopper-diners should take purchases out to the car or designate a sitter. Then grab a tray and a silverware bundle, eyeball the salads, entrees and sides and tell the nice gals what to scoop or carve up for you (everything from chicken to meatloaf gets the electric knife treatment here). Then, pay and have a seat in a comfy roller chair, admire the Christmas decorations or look out the window into the mall that probably won't provide much people-watching. Someone will be around to refill drinks or get you anything you might need. If you still have some shopping to get done, the Lite Plate ($6.59) -- a reduced entree portion, two sides and a choice of bread -- won't leave you too stuffed. While daily features rotate, the Seasoned Baked Chicken is a dependably juicy daily staple. And if you think cafeteria food is bland, you've never tried Franke's fat spice-coated Cajun Catfish filets, which we sampled on a recent Friday. Also not wussy is the mouthstinging jalapeno corn bread, which is the perfect justification for a soothing slice of regular or sugar-free pie for dessert. As for the sides, the seasoned green beans tasted meaty and smoky, the mashed potatoes were fresh and satisfying and the lima beans were soft and salty. Late shoppers will need to eat in time for Franke's 7 p.m. closing Monday-Saturday and 6 p.m. closing Sunday or take advantage of take-home meals available in single servings, quarts and pans. Pei Wei Asian Diner Midtowne Little Rock shopping center, West Markham Street and University Avenue, (501) 280-9423 Two other eateries -- Gramercy Square restaurant and the deli of Wild Oats Natural Marketplace -- will be opening at Midtowne in the weeks to come. But for now, Pei Wei, a quick-serve relative of P.F. Chang's, is the only place to eat a full meal (beyond biscotti from Starbucks) and have a glass of wine or a beer in the shopping center. And it's bustling. We imagine Pei Wei will be plenty busy even when it's not the only nearby place to eat, as the open kitchen fires up flavorful Asian food that is fast and affordable. After ordering a customized noodle or rice bowl ($6.50 with choice of chicken, beef, pork or vegetables and tofu) or signature dish ($7.50- $9 with choice of meat, shellfish or vegetables and tofu), at the counter, fetch a drink, utensils and a fortune cookie for later, then have a seat (we always worry that one won't be available by the time we go to sit, yet one always is) in the spiffy, serviceable dining area. Your food will be brought out to you, and a server will handle any additional needs. Our addictions include the spunky Hot & Sour Soup ($2 cup, $3.95 bowl), the lively Vietnamese Chicken Salad Rolls ($6.25) of shredded chicken, mint, carrot, peanuts, lime vinaigrette and rice noodles wrapped in rice paper, and the zesty Orange Peel Beef ($8.25), featuring tender beef with chile bean sauce, scallions, garlic, snap peas, carrots and orange peels, which are perhaps too prominent but can be easily downsized and avoided, with some fluffy brown rice. Carryout can be ordered at the counter, but a quick call guarantees it will be ready -- and nicely packed in sturdy plastic with plastic baggies around the soup and fortune cookies -- by the time you arrive. WEST LITTLE ROCK Imagine A Restaurant 11525 Cantrell Road (Pleasant Ridge Town Center), Little Rock, (501) 801-5530 Crew 11525 Cantrell Road (Pleasant Ridge Town Center), Little Rock, (501) 223-3553 While not all merchants of the new Pleasant Ridge shopping center are open, two restaurants are, Crew and Imagine A Restaurant. While both offer casualupscale dining in stylish digs, Imagine is the slightly less casual, more upscale of the two. Of the seven items on the dinner menu, only one is priced under $20. The menu, which embodies "new Arkansas" cuisine and emphasizes local ingredients, features such indulgences as a thick, sweet Butternut Squash Soup ($5), a hearty Tea-Brined Pork Loin ($24) and succulent Seared Jumbo Sea Scallops with a split pea puree, bacon salad and fried leeks ($24). While Imagine is located in a retail center, the dinner crowd looks more dressed-up than shoppedout. At lunch, Imagine caters to the jeans-and-comfortable-shoes set, as well as area workers, with a menu of sandwiches, pasta and specialties for under $10. The restaurant has a simple yet splashy look with warm colors and bold artwork. Crew, which has a clean feel and modern light fixtures, is a little less fancy in menu and in price. Entrees include Blackened Catfish ($12.95), a Pork Chop ($19.50) and even a Pulled Pork Sandwich ($8.75), as well as a few more exotic entrees like an Ahi Tuna with a soy-ginger glaze with soba noodles ($18.75) and Shrimp Chicken and Corn Maque Choux ($16.50). At Crew, only two of the 14 dinner options cost more than $20. Those just wanting a snack have several tempting starter choices, like Crew's rich Baked Brie ($7.50) served with a sunny red pepper coulis, roasted garlic cloves and herb baguettes or the juicy Portabella Fries ($6.50), battered and fried wedges of mushrooms. If you're fueling up before an afternoon of shopping, you can get an 8-ounce burger at both places. At Crew one costs $6.50; at Imagine one costs $7. NORTH LITTLE ROCK Crazy Hibachi 2907 Lakewood Village Drive (Lakewood Village Shopping Center), North Little Rock, (501) 812-9888 Whether you need a quick break from shopping or you're ready to break down from shopping, spacious Crazy Hibachi has three dining areas that cater to different meal and mood needs. The Mongolian grill, which allows diners to assemble their own bowls of raw meats, vegetables, noodles, sauces and seasonings that chefs will fire up in a jiffy, is the quickest option. The price for lunch is $6.95 for one trip and $8.95 for unlimited trips; the price for dinner is $11.95. On the opposite side of the restaurant is the lively hibachi section where diners can enjoy the multicourse teppanyaki experience with chefs performing tricks while cooking Japanese steakhouse specialties, like chicken teriyaki or even lobster, that come with rice, salad and soup. Lunch prices are $6.50 to $12.95 and dinner prices are $11.95 to $28.95. Tucked in between those sections is the tranquil sushi bar where diners can relax while watching the chef transform rice, fish and vegetables into works of edible art. Georgia's Gyros 2933 Lakewood Village Drive (Lakewood Village Shopping Center), North Little Rock, (501) 753-5090 After a day of dodging people in stores, you might not want to continue dodging them in a big, busy restaurant. And that's part of the appeal of petite Georgia's Gyros, a casual, cheery eatery that manages to feel out of the way even though it's in the heart of North Little Rock's shopping central -- there's always a seat at a table, the booth or the bar (a full one at that). The rest of Georgia's appeal has to do with the varied selection of, yes, gyros and other sandwiches, salads and specialties perfect for satisfying specific cravings. (Make mine a savory chicken gyro on a soft pita with the tzatziki cucumberyogurt sauce instead of honey mustard for $6.29.) For those just-don't-know-what-youwant moods, the Mediterranean Sampler with a smooth chickpea hummus dip, tzatziki, a savory spinach-and-cheese pie known as spanakopita served with pita bread, feta cheese, tomato, pepperoncini and Greek olives for $8.99 sounds kind of good. Servers are friendly and overhead TVs permit postshopping zoning out. Luby's Cafeteria 3929 McCain Blvd. (McCain Mall), North Little Rock, (501) 771-4911 North Little Rock's Luby's recently limited its hours. So, if you're planning to chow down on a slab of cheddar-scallionsand-bacon-cloaked ground beef known as the Chopped Steak at McCain Mall's only sit-downand-be-served restaurant (well, you will be served after you go through the line, load your tray, get your own drink and seat yourself, that is), you'll need to do so Wednesday through Sunday. While a few interesting items marked new -- Tuscan Chicken, Grilled Hawaiian Pork, Cajun Shrimp Creole -- caught our eye, we don't come to Luby's for interesting. We come for basic, gentle cafeteria fare -- juicy roasted chicken, soft mashed potatoes, mushy macaroni and cheese and, to make sure we've had enough starch, a yeast roll mere sugar sprinkles away from being a doughnut. Entrees range in price from $3.50 to $5.50 and salads and sides are $1.60. Combos include select entrees, two sides and bread for $7.99 to $8.49 and the Lu Ann Platter features half an entree portion, two sides and bread for $6.59. Or just point and pick whatever looks good. There's Styrofoam for those who over-order. Commotion caused by an employee breaking a bunch of dishes made for a distracting trip down the food line on a recent visit, but a friendly server who checked on us frequently after we settled into our roller chairs made up for it. That diners don't have to take their receipts to the cashier to pay until they're leaving (rather than having to pay at the end of the food line), helps those who happen to be lugging shopping bags with a tray.
This story was published Friday, December 01, 2006
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Copyright © 2006, Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, Inc. All rights reserved.
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