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Dining Out
Friday, November 3, 2006


Dining Out :: JUST DESSERTS : Down-home pies like Your Mama's would make

JUST DESSERTS : Down-home pies like Your Mama's would make

BY JACK W. HILL
ARKANSAS DEMOCRAT-GAZETTE

Your Mama's Good Food is aptly named, for sure. Barbara Stockton, who is "Mama," does offer up some good food at lunch Monday through Friday, and she doesn't make you eat your vegetables like your real mama did. And, like a good mama, she creates some fine desserts.
   But there's a problem there. It's hard to save room for those desserts due to the quality and quantity of the meal that precedes it. And then there are the rolls. Lordy mercy, as those old Southerners were wont to say. They're so good we once featured one in a lovely full page color photograph on the front of our Arkansas Weekend section.
   Those huge rolls sometimes outlast the lunches, but co-owners Barbara and Fleming Stockton have thoughtfully installed those squeezable honey containers on all the tables, allowing a patron to turn leftover roll fragments into honey bunettes, or something. And those things can at times adversely affect one's dessert proclivities, I must confess.
   But then there are those times when the rolls all sell out, leaving one in a better position to take an interest in the desserts, which are all homemade. And of them all, those "cut and run" champions, the French, won out.
   Standing well over two inches in height, a piece of Stockton's most-asked-for pie, French Silk, is a multi-layered thing of beauty, starting at its solid Oreo cookie crust foundation. Topping that is a lovely mocha-colored mousse filling, with whipped cream crowning that, dappled with some chocolate shavings. For those preferring the "light" approach, this is it.
   There are other choices: Key Lime Pie, Pecan Pie and Banana Pudding. Seasonal cobblers (apple, peach, blackberry) are sometimes added to the line-up, and there's another sweet option: a large "Neiman Marcus recipe" chocolate chip cookie.
   Stockton also promises the impending return of an autumn favorite, her two-layer pumpkin pie. The pumpkin filling is augmented by cream cheese and whipping cream, then topped with toasted almonds and nutmeg.
   Pies and cobblers are all $1.50; cookies are 75 cents.
   Your Mama's Good Food, Tower Building, Fourth and Center streets, (501) 372-1811. Open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday-Friday (breakfast from 7 to 9 a.m. is pending). Just Desserts sorts through the sugar and spice. E-mail divine dessert recommendations to:
   

jhill@arkansasonline.com





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