It's not actually true that beside every La Quinta you'll find a Denny's. Out where Interstate 630 spills its contents onto either I-430 or a selection of slightly slower-paced roads, there's quite a bit of turf between the two chains. But more importantly to our topic today, there's Julie's.
   Just to the north of the west Little Rock La Quinta, Julie's isn't even a chain or a franchise, but a restaurant and bar owned by Mike Griffiths, who says he has had the place for 17 or 18 years. In Little Rock, that's something close to eternity when you're referring to restaurants.
   When I recently saw a TV commercial for Julie's, I noticed a quick view of a dessert that looked very appealing. So I knew my duty. I got there, fast.
   After a tasty lunch of quiche and soup, it was time for the dessert viewing. The friendly waitress brought out a tray and explained what each item was. When I asked what Julie's is most famous for, she replied that it's Julie's cheesecake ($4.49).
   It was easy to understand why when this work of art arrived, dominating a full-size dinner plate, swimming in strawberry sauce, with chunks of strawberries on top, flanked by dollops of whipped cream on the left and right sides.
   It was succulent and satisfying, worth savoring -- the sort of thing you unconsciously slow down for as you eat, so that it will linger even longer on your taste buds.
   Owner Griffiths has the kind of pride in his dessert that a son takes in his mother's recipe.
   "It's something she's made for us since we were little kids," he explains. "She used to come to town to visit my family, and she would make one of those for the gathering, which would include our employees. It got to where they would ask before she arrived, 'Is she going to make one of her cheesecakes?'
   "So it wasn't a hard decision that maybe we needed to put it on our menu. We've had it for the past seven years, and within the first year's time, it became our biggest seller. No matter what we throw up against it, it still outsells them."
   Griffiths says his mother, Donna Griffiths, who now lives in Lakeview, in north Arkansas, makes her cheesecake minus the crust that some include. Philadelphia cream cheese, eggs, sugar, almonds and a little amaretto ("for flavor" ) make up mom's delightful creation.
   Seeing is not believing, but tasting is. Thanks for your splendid work, Mrs. Griffiths.
   You can even buy a whole Julie's cheesecake for $18.95.
   Other Julie's dessert staples are pecan pie ($4.25), caramel pecan fudge crunch pie ($4.95), caramel apple crisp ($4.95), chocolate raspberry cake ($5.95) and a "dessert of the day," which on the day of my visit was a Belgian chocolate cheesecake ($5.95.)
   Julie's Restaurant & Bar, 110 S. Shackleford Road, Little Rock; (501) 224-4501 Just Desserts sorts through the sugar and spice. E-mail divine dessert recommendations to:
   

jhill@arkansasonline.com

This story was published Friday, June 02, 2006