When January blows in, so do visions of white sands, warm breezes and Key lime pie. Of course, some of us devotees of dessert entertain year-round visions of Key lime pie.
   And so it came as a pleasant surprise to encounter the pie at one of our favorite downtown establishments, Ciao's Italian Restaurant, now in its 21st year at a location on West Seventh Street, a tad shy of a block east of Broadway in a space that formerly housed Trifles restaurant, lo, those many years ago. Becky and Tony Mobly now own Ciao's.
   Sometimes we plan our diningout journeys to places that offer this proud pie -- where's that list I started? -- but other times the waiter just mentions it as casually as someone might ask, "How were your holidays?" I try to be prepared to be surprised, but still, it sometimes happens, just as if you ask for some Key lime pie, chances are you'll be told, alas, they do not offer it.
   Ciao's, however, makes it a regular feature, at least until they run out. When they have it, it's definitely a winner.
   If you were going to bring in Key lime pie from an outside supplier, where would the ideal place be? Key West, Fla., that's where! It's made there, manager and co-owner Becky Mobly tells us, from scratch, using the juice from real Key limes, all natural products and a graham cracker crust, making for one delightful dessert experience, heightened by that dollop of whipped cream on top, naturally.
   The pie is pale, only hinting of those citrus-y colors we think of: yellow for lemon and green for lime. As the last bite of my carry-out dessert tempts me from its white container, atop a backdrop of my yellow legal pad, all I can think of is this pie could taste no better, even if it -- and I -- were at an outdoor patio in Key West. In case they run out, the restaurant also offers chocolate creme brulee and tiramisu daily, along with other seasonal favorites that include cheesecake and ice cream. All desserts cost $5.
   (P.S. Don't fall for the trick that I did. If Becky has her 11-monthold son, Max, strapped to her back, he will test your gullibility by throwing his roll down to see if you will pick it up. His parents have learned better.)
   Ciao's Italian Restaurant, 405 W. Seventh St., (501) 372-0238 ; open 11 a.m. -2 p.m. Monday-Friday, 5:30-9 p.m. Thursday-Saturday.

This story was published Friday, January 05, 2007