The McCain Mall vicinity of North Little Rock is certainly not lacking for steak places. Just about every steak chain -- Lone Star, Outback and the dueling roadhouses Texas Roadhouse and Roadhouse Grill -- is present, as are some more upscale steak restaurants, Firefall Grill & Bar and Saddle Creek Woodfired Grill.
   So back when Montana Steakhouse, owned by the same folks who own its strip-center mate Kanpai (yes, another steak place on McCain, be it Japanese ), was in the "coming soon" sign stage we were a bit nervous for it. There is already so much established, and even excellent, competition. And, besides, we already have a Montana-styled steak place (Saddle Creek).
   After two visits to Montana, which opened last month, we're still a bit nervous for it.
   The spacious restaurant certainly looks good. Everything -- from the glossy wooden booths and tables, to the bar area that divides the dining room, to the restrooms -- is pristine. But we couldn't help thinking that the total effect -- simple light fixtures perched above tables, walls naked except for random beer signs -- is generic and lacking in ambience. The only thing giving the room personality was the music that ranged from a Billy Joel greatest hits album being played too loudly to a shuffling of '80s hits.
   Our servers, however, had plenty of personality. Both were polite and professional, even if the service wasn't perfect (more on that in a minute).
   The bulk of the familiar menu belongs to steaks, which range from Beef Tips with peppers, onions and mushrooms ($10.99); to a 16-ounce Montana Cut Prime Rib ($21.99); to a Steak & Lobster with a 6-ounce filet and 5-ounce lobster tail ($27.99). Other dinner options include items like Grilled Chicken Breast ($10.99), pastas such as Chicken Alfredo ($10.99), seafood like Grilled Salmon ($15.99) and sandwiches like a Philly Cheesesteak ($7.99). A lunch menu of sandwiches and smaller portions of dinner entrees is available ($6.59- $9.99). Nothing struck us as particularly exotic or different, except maybe specialties like Creole Red Beans & Rice with Andouille ($8.99) and Southern Chicken Fried Steak ($10.99) on the menu of a place called Montana.
   The Shrimp Tchoupitoulas appetizer ($7.99) also seemed out of place on the menu, but the savory dish with garlic shrimp and mushrooms served over buttery French bread was a hit with us.
   We can't say the same about the two steaks we tried. My husband's Rancher Porterhouse ($21.99), ordered medium, was mighty in its 18-ounce heft, but it was overcooked, dulling the taste and texture.
   I'm still not sure if the steak I received was the Bacon Wrapped Filet Mignon ($16.99 6-ounce, $19.99 9-ounce ) I ordered. Flat, rounded on one side and oddly jagged on the other, it resembled no filet I've ever been served. Also, it had only a small sliver of bacon on the rounded side and was cooked to a bright pink medium-rare, not medium. The waiter, who otherwise was great about making sure we had what we needed, left to ask the kitchen about my steak but never followed up, so I gave up and tried it. The flavor of the steak, whatever it was, was pleasing.
   With our steaks, we could choose soup or Caesar or house salad. We both ordered the simple, chilly house salads and found ourselves ignoring them, preferring the puffy sweet rolls that were served on a plate with plastic packets of spread.
   A loaded baked potato ($2.79) made for a fine side item, even if the bland sauteed mushrooms ($2.59) could have used some more seasoning. A vegetable medley that was coated in potent dried herbs could have used a little less seasoning.
   Figuring we ought to give the steaks another try, we ordered the Prime Rib ($16.99 12-ounce, $21.99 16-ounce ), as well as the Pan Seared Mahi Mahi ($15.99) for our second visit. The hearty Steak & Wild Rice soup that we ordered to take the rainy fall chill off would have been good, if served hot.
   The soup wasn't the only thing that wasn't so hot. While presenting our plates, our server told us to make sure that our potatoes were heated sufficiently because she wasn't sure they were. While we appreciated getting the heads up, we would have appreciated the restaurant handling quality control testing in the kitchen, not at the table. Not only were our potatoes cold, our entire meals were too. An apologetic manager quickly returned with my husband's heated plate -- mine was further delayed because she noticed the fish wasn't thoroughly cooked.
   Once heated, the portly Prime Rib was a tender success. While the flaky Mahi had a good flavor, the topping of "pineapple salsa" -- canned pineapple chunks mixed with too much minced green pepper and some onion -- did it no favors.
   A slice of the rich layered Double Chocolate Cake ($5.79) did end the experience on a sweeter note, even if the price seemed high. Other desserts include vanilla ice cream, cheesecake, chocolate pecan pie and key lime pie ($2.29- $5.29).
   

MONTANA STEAKHOUSE Address:
4120 E. McCain Boulevard (McCain Crossing Center), North Little Rock

Hours:
Lunch is served 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday and 11 a.m.-4 :30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday, dinner is served 4:30-9 :30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 4:30-10 :30 p.m. Friday-Saturday and 4:30-9 :30 p.m. Sunday.

Cuisine:
Steak, pasta, seafood, sandwiches

Credit cards:
AE, D, MC, V

Alcoholic beverages:
Full bar

Reservations:
Yes

Wheelchair accessible:
Yes

Carryout:
Yes

(501) 955-2244

This story was published Friday, November 03, 2006