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Friday, June 16, 2006


Weekend :: Restaurants : Chic Rumba-Revolution has Cuban spice

Restaurants : Chic Rumba-Revolution has Cuban spice

BY JENNIFER CHRISTMAN
ARKANSAS DEMOCRAT-GAZETTE

There is not yet a sign out front to alert you about this, so let us tell you: Rumba-Revolution is in business.
   Chris King and Suzon Awbrey, who own Sticky Fingerz Chicken Shack, have opened a half-restaurant (Rumba) and half-nightclub (Revolution, also referred to as The Rev Room) in the River Market District space formerly occupied by Coconut Bay Cafe/Club Coconuts. It's the big, reddish structure at the northeast corner of La Harpe Boulevard and President Clinton Avenue.
   The restaurant has a whimsical shabby-chic sensibility with colorful walls, white chandeliers and additional funky light fixtures, sheer curtains that offer booths a cozy feel and abstract paintings that resemble Rorschach inkblot tests. A spacious outdoor patio out back offers umbrella-shaded tables. Lively music and cocktails like mojitos and caipirinhas lend a breezy island vibe.
   Owners expect the club side, which is about twice the size of Sticky Fingerz and can hold about 600 people, to attract widely known acts. Such bands already on the schedule include Big Smith on June 24 and Blues Traveler on July 25.
   But this is a restaurant review, so on to the food.
   The Cuban-Mexican menu, which fits on one page and comes presented to patrons on a clipboard, is divided into sections: first plate, tapas, soup and salad, lunch specials, sandwiches, a la carte, entrees (served after 5 p.m.) and dessert. Expect to pay up to $6.99 for a sandwich or lunch special ; dinner entree prices range from $11.99 to $18.99. Or go the least expensive route by ordering a la carte items like tacos (two for $4.79).
   Overall, we were impressed with Rumba's spirited food and attention to detail. Everything -- down to the warm, red spiced chips that accompany dips -- is served with plenty of flavor and flair. Expect dishes with sprinklings of fresh herbs and surprises, like bits of mango.
   The wait staff we encountered seemed not just acquainted with the food, but positively passionate about it.
   We found only one fault (and that was a temporary one) with an item that we ordered over the course of a lunch and a dinner at the new restaurant. Our queso blanco, a creamy dip made of manchego cheese, ($4.99) was not served especially hot. But it was quickly whisked way by our friendly server who returned with it bubbling in no time. The other "first plate" we sampled was the avocado-hearty guacamole ($4.29), which was a mellow match for the zippy chips.
   Tapas, small portions designed for sharing, can also make for a fine meal starter or full meal. Just choose three ($7.99), six ($14.99) or nine ($19.99) from selections that include chicken taquitos, pork skewers and fish croquettes. We sampled the tasty, tender chicken skewers (served with a spicy chipotle dipping sauce); the sweet, crisp coconut shrimp (served with a tropical dipping sauce); and the soft, savory beef empanada or meat pie.
   For dinner entrees, we selected the pork tenderloin ($14.99) and the red snapper ($14.99). The tasty medallions of mango-citrus marinated pork were cooked to a toothsome medium. Perhaps the breaded fish tasted bland, but the chipotle sauce still on the table from the appetizer kicked it up a notch. Entrees are served with a small Cuban salad with a citrus vinaigrette and a tortilla-shell bowl of cumin-spiked rice, black beans and onions.
   For lunch, I tried the two enchiladas, one of the three $6.99 lunch specials served from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekdays. There was plenty of chicken inside the green-chili-dotted, cheese-covered tortillas. Other lunch specials feature two tacos or a Cuban salad with soup. All come with rice/beans and a soft drink.
   A friend who ordered the grilled Cuban classico sandwich ($6.99) raved that the generous amount of roasted pork and ham joined by pickle and mustard on sourdough reminded her of authentic sandwiches she had enjoyed in Miami. The jalapeno tortilla chips and bits of fresh mango served on the side offered additional appeal.
   Other sandwiches include a grilled-chicken Cubano, vegetable Cubano and BLT Cubano. Those not in the mood for something so exotic can always build a burger ($6.99) from a list of standard toppings, with a 99-cents-extra charge for special toppings like guacamole and apple-smoked bacon.
   Rumba's spicy signature dishes make ordering from the "dulce" or dessert menu -- sopapilla, plantains foster, dark rum chocolate flan, etc. ($3.79-$ 4.59) -- all the more tempting. We discovered that two warm, grilled pineapple slices that make soup of small scoops of vanilla-bean ice cream ($4.29) is a summery, sweet choice.
   RUMBA-REVOLUTION

Address:
300 President Clinton Ave., Little Rock

Hours:
11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Wednesday and 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Thursday-Saturday (bar stays open until 1 a.m.). Pending Sunday liquor license approval, the restaurant plans to offer Sunday brunch in the future.

Cuisine:
Cuban, Mexican

Credit cards:
MC, V, AE, D, DC

Alcoholic beverages:
Full bar

Reservations
: Parties of 10 or more

Nonsmoking section:
Yes

Wheelchair accessible:
Yes

Carryout:
Yes

(501) 823-0090





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